Hot Creek Rim: Most people skip Section O...

Trying to keep it cool in 100 degree shade at Cache 22 along the Hat Creek Rim. We pulled 35 miles that day just to wake to water at the Crystal Lake Fish Hatchery. If the Poison Oak and heat wasn't enough, many times this section of trail went Southwest or due West. Canada is in neither of these directions.

I've spent over a week now away from the trail, and even though the last section I completed is the most commonly skipped (read: Hat Creek Rim, poison oak, no water, +110 temps, poison oak, forest fire smoke, poison oak) by "thru-hikers", I miss even it in comparison with "the everyday". That said, in order to walk into Canada before the weather turns gnar, I've made the decision to skip the 200miles stretch from Castella to Ashland. At this point I've hiked over 1595 miles, have gone through 5 pairs of sunglassess, am on my third pair of shoes, walk like an 80yo in the morning while my feet warm up, and cannot even imagine stopping.

The trail seemed to be the most trying here, and for the first time I felt the first sensations of the"Why am I doing this?" bummer - something it seems a lot of my fellow hikers have already gone through or are going through. Each person has their own personal devil, and section of trail that really doesn't do it for em, and mine is apparently heat without cacti. I did fine in the first sections of desert, but it seemed that without the visually stimulating flora, I didn't do so hot. Also, much of the terrain was tear-your-face-off -if-you-fall lava rock, which chewed what remained of my shoes (those babies made it 1000miles!) to bits. However, the self-questioning abated quickly, and I'm glad that I didn't yellow-blaze the notorious Section O, aka Section Oh-F*&^. Especially since it ended with trail magic from the underground trail angel Budesa family!

Things are hot all over: 106 degree heat in hometown Portland, 110 heat had me flying into the headwaters of Burney Falls, marking the end of doom. (i.e. Hat Creek Rim).

The light at the end of the heat tunnel: Molly Budesa cooks up a fierce stir fry. The Budesas: Paul, Tammy, Molly, Abby and Ian (and later Alex and Emily in Shasta) felt like a whole new part of my family and served up the most relaxing and as lovely as any trail magic.

.

I opted to leave the trail to climb Mt. Shasta, another +14,000 just south of the Oregon Border. Everyone we spoke to cautioned us about her, saying we'd need everything shy of the kitchen sink to make it up safely, and that our gear of shorts and questionable footwear, and ultra-light approach probably wouldn't fly. Turns out - as some of our crew flew past a team of 5, roped into each other and with about $5000 worth of gear each - the best piece of equipment you can really have is priceless and conveniently located on your shoulders. Shasta definitely dished out some mischief and was not a cake-walk, but was totally worth the blue-blaze. I'd probably wear a helmet next time though.

Left the trail last monday to climb Mt. Shasta, sans ice axe, helmet, and crampons. I did have a few holes in my shoes though, and gave them a vikings farewell as this was their last journey. This is the view up Avalanche Gulch.

The Bride and Groom's table.

After Mt. Shasta, I left the trail for good-friend's Kate & Pete's wedding in upstate NY. 40 hours or so of travel later, I happily arrived to the ceremony and got to visit, if however briefly, with some of the best people I can imagine knowing. This journey within a journey was a bit of reality check: I've been following one, sole, continuous path this summer and once in NY I found myself navigating every train in the alphabet going both directions. I had however, forgotten about the humidity of the east, and thought I might drown in the subway tunnels. I survived though, and so it would seem I've not lost all ability to live within society.

Almost full. The August "Strawberry Moon" Rises on the SE side of Shasta.

Despite my retention of civilized aptitudes, I can't wait to get back to that trail.

P.S: I've maxed out my Flickr account, but prefer Picasa anyway, so from now out all pic's'll be posted on my Picasa site. (You can find the link on the right side). I've also thrown up some video files, nothing huge, but something anyway. I apologize in advance for all the "Whoo!"'s you'll hear if you watch em.

Halfsies: Speeding down and Slowing up

Four days ago I became one of many to almost make it. Around 9:30am I came upon a handy little marker indicating that, at that very moment, I was about to complete my 1335 PCT mile. Shortly after I celebrated with a mini-flask of Maker's, and then headed 14 more miles and a hitch into new favorite CA small town Chester for celebratory Pizza (thank you Jan & Bob!), fruit (best fruit stand ever!) and ice cream (I, the fat kid, actually declined the 1/2 gallon milk shake challenge). That night Piper's Mom & Lowell took us in and fed the five of us amazing things and we played horseshoe on their luxurious green lawn (it's amazing how much we take soft, supple grass for granted, one good thing about civilization). You can check out her pic's here.

Friend Levi came out to hike a little over 1/26th of the trail with me, meeting up in So. Lake Tahoe then sneaking through the Desolation Wilderness (without a permit!) up to Sierra City. I think he contributed over 200,000 calories to the mission of the trail via waffles, sushi, and other other delicious things! Thanks Levi! You can check out his pic's here.

Things on this trail remain stupendous, despite the climbing mercury. I've taken a slower pace here through Northern California, taking time to soak up some trail magic here and there with some new and old trail angels. I can't wait to angel myself next year: I'm already planning Margaritas and Key Lime pie for next year's crew somewhere in Oregon.

In other news, I've started to develop blisters on my heels, which really doesn't make much sense to me unless my feet have grown bigger. I guess they say that is supposed to happen. Weird.

For those of you hoping to find more blogs more often (brother Brian, here's looking at you!), expect an annoying amount to spring up in the first half of August, when I'll be getting off trail to attend good friends Kate & Pete's wedding upstate NY, and will have my own, speedy, computer for more than the usual 1/2 hour of slow, trail computer. NYC, I hope I survive you in all your technological prowess. I have trouble with doors these days.

Going to Church and Unlikely Patriotism. Also, 1000 miles!

These two made it how far? Really? Colorblind and I pose pretty at the 1000mile marker

With the Fourth of July I said goodbye to the Sierras - hard to do though they humbled me immensely - and headed into Northern California. The past month has been unlike any other and, in the big footsteps on John Muir, I went to church for the first time in California every single day. I wish I had more pictures to share with you all, but I was ironically too distracted by the scenery to think to capture it.

Mather Pass - bestest one yet

After leaving Independence I hit a +10,000 pass everyday, with numerous, freezing fords in between. Each pass was extremely unique in it's challenges and gifts - most of the time the ones which seemed "smaller" packed the biggest punch, as Glen Pass did. I had to cut my miles back as a consequence, but was more than happy to do so: the past 300 mile section of trail has been the most amazing yet and there was no good reason to rush through it.

Church, also known as High Sierra Sunrise Trail (at sunset)
In all, I tacked on 76 miles in side trails to Mt. Whitney, Yosemite, and some ridiculously serene and clear hotsprings that were a "blueblaze" (meaning not on the PCT) into Red's Meadow. A fire had sparked in Yosemite the day before we got up Halfdome and the valley was slightly obscured in a haze that gave it all a Maxfield Parrish sort of glow... but the views were still stupendous. The crowds weren't too bad either - and provided entertainment as we watched a family first stalk then run away from a very freaked out adolescent bear.

I didn't experience any "real" bears fortunately (or unfortunately?) though I did wake up with a mouse in my sleeping bag - a lesson in why you shouldn't eat poptarts in your bed if you're not using a tent. Each town visit is still a study in glutany, though now that I'm in Tahoe, Casino-land of all you can eat buffets, I tending to go for the higher quality calorie instead of quanity (although I did eat tempura cheesecake after sushi last night... yum).

When you dream about food all day and you're eating 2x as many calories, things get a little weird: Nacho Doritos and French Vanilla Bean Ice Cream Dream.

From this point on I'll be joined by friend Levi through Northern California. In the next 200 miles I'll just be hitting the halfway point! And I've got less than 300 to be ready for the Seiad Valley Pancake challenge... See you at the Oregon Border?

The Past Few Days: Immersion in Epic-ocity

Greetings from the town library in the basement of Independence, CA's town courthouse. Time is limited, but I wanted to put up a short blog to say hello & let you all know that there're new pic's on my flickr site. All's well and then some after summiting Whitney on Saturday then crossing both Forester and Kearsage pass yesterday (anytime anyone wants to do the John Muir Trail - I'm in!) It is COLD that high up! Think of me when you cozy up in nice warm beds and send some of that heat my way - my shoes've been frozen solid the past couple mornings, but the scenery's been absolutly worth it. Wish you were here!

Mile 551: One Pair of shoes down... ? to go?

This is the final hello from the desert: a beauty for sure but, like the best, a terrible ruthless one at that. Everything is prickly, cranky, and generally pissed off; I don't much blame it, especially between the hours of 1:30 and 4:00pm. Even still I wouldn't trade a single degree drop in temperature for what I've seen during the past four weeks. Its also a farewell to my first pair of shoes, worn down to the nubs by the hot, gritty sand terrain:



The permanent, "lifer" Trail Angels in this section lived up to their reputation: so many thanks to the Saufley's in Agua Dulce (a huge operation with large tents with cots, air conditioned hiker-trailer with A.C., kitchen, and shower, and wonder-woman Donna holding the show together), the Anderson's in Green Valley (these guys cook dinner and breakfast for 20+ hikers every day in addition to not only rehydrating and putting up with but keeping up with the drunken party-hikers) and Bob at Hikertown, who provided much needed mid-day shade and glorious water.


Surreal things happen daily, but this one was pretty cool. Two black Wild Mustangs from a herd of about 100 watched us carefully from the hills of a windfarm.


Fellow hiker Colorblind represents. She hiked all but 200 miles before dropping off in Northern Washington last year, and is an amazing resource for everything from watersources and landscape changes to creepy sections in towns to be avoided.



View from Rooster Crest. Awesome camping to be had in it's saddle. I usually try to camp in an exposed spot with my head to the west and feet to the east: there is nothing like waking up with the sun rising at your feet.

Wrong Address...

Hey all you package senders: I posted the wrong address for Kennedy Meadows.
Here's the right one:
Kennedy Meadows General Store
96740 Beach Meadow Road
Inyokern, CA
93527